Blab Sports
Umbro: From Pub-Backed Beginnings to Global Sports-Fashion Powerhouse
In the early 1920s, Harold and Wallace Humphrey began selling sportswear from the back of their mother’s pub in Mobberley, England. By 1934 the brand—now called Umbro—was supplying kits to both sides of the FA Cup Final, and a decade later, in 1966, it produced shirts for 15 of the 16 nations competing in the World Cup.
Umbro’s ascent continued as the Premier League launched in 1992, with half of the clubs sporting the brand’s kits. The company’s early innovations set new industry standards: the 1955 “Sportswear X‑Mas Pack” was the first time a football kit was sold as a complete set to fans, and that same year a collaboration with tennis designer Teddy Tinling produced uniforms worn by four Wimbledon champions.
Fashion insiders took notice early. In 1963 Draper’s described Harold Humphreys as “the Dior of the football world.” A milestone came in 2002 when Umbro released its first reversible jersey for an international team and, later that year, its first full collection in partnership with designer Paul Smith—an arrangement that pre‑dated similar collaborations by other sportswear giants.
The 2000s saw a surge in high‑profile partnerships. In 2005 the brand unveiled a line designed by former Louis Vuitton and Dior creative director Kim Jones. Four years later, the Archive Research Project, led by designer Aitor Throup, re‑worked seven historic garments; Professor Andrew Groves, director of the Westminster Menswear Archive, called it “the most interesting thing the brand has done in years.”
Umbro’s fortunes were challenged by larger competitors. In 2008 Nike acquired the company for about $582 million. A year later, in 2009, Nike took over Umbro’s contract to supply England’s national kits—a loss that the brand’s head of global marketing, Helene Hope, described as a “big blow.” In 2012 Umbro was sold to Iconix Brand Group for $225 million, leaving the brand in a “twilight zone,” according to Hope.
Despite ownership changes, Umbro continued to innovate. The company has worked with a wide range of designers and streetwear labels—including Supreme, Patta, Aries, and the Milan‑based OG Slam Jam. The 2023 partnership with OG Slam Jam produced archival training tops fitted with balaclavas and chainmail football kits; Groves called the collaboration “genuinely unexpected.”
Umbro’s cultural reach extends beyond the pitch. The brand’s 1990 England third shirt, worn in a single match, remains a collector’s item, and the 1995 Blur and Liam Gallagher collaborations brought Umbro into the music and pop‑culture arenas.
In 2024 the Westminster Menswear Archive hosted the exhibition Umbro 100: Sportswear × Fashion, tracing the brand’s century‑long influence on both sports and fashion. The show highlighted Umbro’s early recognition of the link between sport and image—a theme that has continued into the present.
Looking ahead, Umbro is preparing for the 2026 FIFA World Cup. The brand has announced a series of new collaborations, including a partnership with Supreme and a continued relationship with OG Slam Jam. These projects aim to blend heritage with contemporary style, reinforcing Umbro’s position as a bridge between football history and modern fashion.
Today, Umbro remains a key supplier of kits for clubs such as Ipswich Town and continues to explore collaborations that push the boundaries of sportswear design. While the brand has faced significant market pressures, its long history of innovation and cultural relevance keeps it a notable player in the global sports‑fashion landscape.
Umbro’s ascent continued as the Premier League launched in 1992, with half of the clubs sporting the brand’s kits. The company’s early innovations set new industry standards: the 1955 “Sportswear X‑Mas Pack” was the first time a football kit was sold as a complete set to fans, and that same year a collaboration with tennis designer Teddy Tinling produced uniforms worn by four Wimbledon champions.
Fashion insiders took notice early. In 1963 Draper’s described Harold Humphreys as “the Dior of the football world.” A milestone came in 2002 when Umbro released its first reversible jersey for an international team and, later that year, its first full collection in partnership with designer Paul Smith—an arrangement that pre‑dated similar collaborations by other sportswear giants.
The 2000s saw a surge in high‑profile partnerships. In 2005 the brand unveiled a line designed by former Louis Vuitton and Dior creative director Kim Jones. Four years later, the Archive Research Project, led by designer Aitor Throup, re‑worked seven historic garments; Professor Andrew Groves, director of the Westminster Menswear Archive, called it “the most interesting thing the brand has done in years.”
Umbro’s fortunes were challenged by larger competitors. In 2008 Nike acquired the company for about $582 million. A year later, in 2009, Nike took over Umbro’s contract to supply England’s national kits—a loss that the brand’s head of global marketing, Helene Hope, described as a “big blow.” In 2012 Umbro was sold to Iconix Brand Group for $225 million, leaving the brand in a “twilight zone,” according to Hope.
Despite ownership changes, Umbro continued to innovate. The company has worked with a wide range of designers and streetwear labels—including Supreme, Patta, Aries, and the Milan‑based OG Slam Jam. The 2023 partnership with OG Slam Jam produced archival training tops fitted with balaclavas and chainmail football kits; Groves called the collaboration “genuinely unexpected.”
Umbro’s cultural reach extends beyond the pitch. The brand’s 1990 England third shirt, worn in a single match, remains a collector’s item, and the 1995 Blur and Liam Gallagher collaborations brought Umbro into the music and pop‑culture arenas.
In 2024 the Westminster Menswear Archive hosted the exhibition Umbro 100: Sportswear × Fashion, tracing the brand’s century‑long influence on both sports and fashion. The show highlighted Umbro’s early recognition of the link between sport and image—a theme that has continued into the present.
Looking ahead, Umbro is preparing for the 2026 FIFA World Cup. The brand has announced a series of new collaborations, including a partnership with Supreme and a continued relationship with OG Slam Jam. These projects aim to blend heritage with contemporary style, reinforcing Umbro’s position as a bridge between football history and modern fashion.
Today, Umbro remains a key supplier of kits for clubs such as Ipswich Town and continues to explore collaborations that push the boundaries of sportswear design. While the brand has faced significant market pressures, its long history of innovation and cultural relevance keeps it a notable player in the global sports‑fashion landscape.
